Located on the west coast of Scotland, Oban is a dainty port town built around a natural bay (indeed the word “Oban” translates to “little bay” in Scots Gaelic). Whilst Oban may be a small town it has a lot going on. The port is a hive of activity with grizzled fisherman plying their trade, local seafood restaurants serving up the days’ catch, and tourists and locals alike being ferried in and out of the far-flung Hebridean isles. The inner parts of the town are crammed with shops, pubs and hotels, whilst houses perch on the steep surrounding hills. At the top of everything is McCaig’s Tower: an unlikely and imposing granite monument, modelled after the Roman Colosseum, that overlooks the entire town below.
At the heart of the town—just a street or so from the water, down a side-alley and opposite the neon lights of a Chinese restaurant— is Oban Distillery. It has been here since 1794, long before much of the rest of the town. Like the town itself this distillery is small, producing just 650,000 litres a year from its two stills. Nestled against the cliff-face and hemmed in by the growing town around it, the distillery’s owners once unsuccessfully tried to make more room by trying to carve directly into the rock itself. But despite Oban Distillery’s small size their ownership by the beverage giant Diageo gives them global reach- I can vouch for the fact that their whisky can be found half a world away in Australia.
The core Oban Distillery expression is the 14 Year Old. In this whisky the distillery’s use of minimally-peated malt and practice of maturing mainly in refill American oak barrels produces a crowd-pleasing salted caramel flavour profile (with the barest whisper of smoke) that’s bottled at an easy-drinking 43% ABV. Last year, however, saw the release of a whisky which showcased a very different side to Oban. The Oban 21 Year Old came out as part of the limited-edition 2018 Diageo Special Releases range. It is matured instead in refill European oak butts and is bottled at a much higher cask strength of 57.9% ABV.
Nose: Green apple and cut grass at first, giving way to raspberry jubes, peach and honey blossom. A surprising hit of freshly ground coffee.
Palate: Orange, cinnamon spice and black pepper heat. Oak and a follow-through of the bitter coffee notes from the nose.
A warming and long finish.
Oban whisky but certainly not as you know it! A complex dram that has a very different flavour profile from the core expression, with no salted caramel in sight. And like the town of Oban itself this whisky has a lot going on. Oban may be a small distillery in a small town—but good things do come in small packages after all.
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